Fiction: The Making of the z0m81e virus

It was discovered 20 years after the outbreak that the biological pathogen that made people behave like rabid cannibals was a virus designated as z0m81e.  The z0m81e virus was a true frankenstein of a virus which was deliberately genetically modified and manipulated in the biological weapons lab of an obscure organization only known by its callsign “The White Horse”.  The US Army called the z0m81e virus “Zulu Zero Mike Eight One Echo”, or just “Zulu Zero”, and called the infected “Zulus”.

The z0m81e virus was originally transmitted via the initial carriers – the lab modified mosquitoes which feasted on the blood of lab mice infected with the z0m81e virus.  Scattered records show that the first field testing was done in the jungles of Vietnam during the Vietnam war where the first mosquitoes were unleashed upon the Vietcong forces.  Within a week, entire villages were wiped out, leaving only the infected who roamed the rice fields like hungry cannibals.  After a few specimens were caught, the entire villages and surrounding countryside was napalmed to wipe out all traces of the disease.  Later on, Agent Orange was also introduced to further control the spread of the GMO mosquitoes by exfoliating the jungles that the insects like to take shelter in.  It was found that both Agent Orange and Napalm needed to be used in combination to contain the virus outbreaks.

The second test was made during the Korean war, but it proved unsuccessful, with the mosquitoes dying as the weather turned cold, and the few infected North Korean soldiers were easily dispatched by their comrades before it could spread further.  Similarly, tests against Russian soldiers in Afghanistan failed to provide sufficient results, where the mosquitoes died quickly in the dry hot days and cold dry nights, and the few Russian and Afghan soldiers who were bitten did not get a chance to infect many others and were quarantined and dispatched quickly, a few infected Afghan soldiers were beheaded for biting or trying to bite other comrades.

Then, there were other reports which described much success in warm and humid climates where mosquitoes could easily breed.  There was once a near disaster that was averted only with carefully orchestrated gasoline tank explosions that burned down a small town where the infected quickly took over.  It was a small town in New Orleans which was strategically located near a gas pipeline.

The outbreak did not start in one place, however, but it did have common patterns: warm, humid days, with some downpours which left puddles of stagnant water for mosquitoes to breed in.  Most outbreaks naturally occurred in third world countries with warm humid climates where public health and public safety, as well as education was poorly funded.  The disease then later spread to the southern states of the United States and even northern states during the summer.  The disease spread through both the host species – the rats as well as the carrier species – the mosquitoes.  And since the virus was designed to have a quick incubation period (1 to 3 days), the disease spread quickly where there were large populations of people living in a small area.

Surprisingly, it is found that the virus does not affect the host animals – it only replicates itself – while they are infected, they do not show any symptoms.  The host animals are lab rats and other rats.  The vectors also are not affected by the virus: the mosquitoes ingest the blood from the lab rats, and the mosquitoes in turn may be eaten by birds, reptiles, and bats, where birds and reptiles do not make good vectors, while the bats make excellent carriers.

To Be Continued..

Ebola – A Preventable Outbreak

There’s a lot of chatter on TV about the possibility of an Ebola outbreak in the United States.  The truth is that the United States is not a third world country, and that we have enough knowledge and resources to easily contain and avoid an outbreak on the US soil.  The news media should not over dramatize it to cause panic, which will cause more problems than the virus could cause.

First, the facts:  Ebola is a virus, and its transmission is possible only through bodily fluids (mucus, blood, saliva, tears, sweat, nasal discharge, vomit, semen, vaginal secretions, urine, feces).  As long as we don’t come in contact with the bodily fluids directly, the disease cannot transmit.  Skin contact alone will not transmit, unless we have open wounds or sores, or it contacts our mucus membranes (eyes, nose, mouth).  Here is an article by the WHO on Ebola: http://www.who.int/mediacentre/news/ebola/06-october-2014/en/

Now, what we need to understand is that although it is not an airborne virus like tuberculosis where the virus can remain active while suspended in the air on dry particles, it can be transmitted through large droplets of infected person’s bodily fluids such as a sneeze or a cough.  The sneeze or a cough can propel the droplets several feet or yards, and can be carried by wind, and can land on surfaces, and remain active until the droplets of bodily fluids dry out.  However, this method of transmission is rare, and only dangerous at severe stages of infection.

 

Preventing the Spread of the Virus

Since Ebola is not an airborne virus, and transmission requires contact, its transmission can be easily prevented.

1) Do not go near known infected persons, especially in severe stages of infection, unless they are already quarantined in confined quarters, and you need to go near them because of your medical job (or you are caring for them).  Near is within 67 yards (about 200 feet), which is how far sneezes can propel droplets of saliva without the aid of wind.

2) If you do have to go near infected persons due to your medical job (or you are caring for them), then you should protect yourself by wearing the following items.

• Surgical Gloves or rubber gloves
• Safety Glasses or Goggles or disposable full face shields
• Surgical Masks
• Surgical Apron or Gown (Long sleeved is better)
• Waterproof shoes or boots or shoe covers, or just rubber boots

3) If you do have to go near infected persons or have to encounter them due to your job requirements, wash your hands frequently with soap and water, and do not touch your face with unwashed hands.  You can use 70% alcohol hand sanitizer or an alcohol free hand sanitizer such as Supernova if you do not have access to water immediately.  Carefully remove any of the above protective items so that you do not contaminate yourself or others.  Take a shower thoroughly after the encounter with infected person/s.  Thoroughly clean all affected areas and surfaces and items that may have come in contact with infected persons or their bodily fluids.  You can use a concentrated liquid bleach cleaner for cleaning surfaces.  Dispose of any contaminated items carefully and put them in bag clearly marked as bio-hazardous material.  You can burn these items later if they are small enough.

4) If you have open wounds or sores on your skin, do not go near infected persons, period.  Even if your wounds have been treated, you should not put yourself at risk until they are fully healed.

5) If you have the following symptoms, you should immediately call a doctor and stay home.  Symptoms may appear anywhere from 2 to 21 days after exposure to Ebola, but the average is 8 to 10 days.  Source: CDC http://www.cdc.gov/vhf/ebola/symptoms/

• Fever (greater than 38.6°C or 101.5°F)
• Severe headache
• Muscle pain
• Weakness
• Diarrhea
• Vomiting
• Abdominal (stomach) pain
• Unexplained hemorrhage (bleeding or bruising)

6) In the unlikely event of an outbreak, which can only happen if we completely ignore safety protocols, or enough people ignore safety protocols, the best thing you can do is to stay away from major metropolitan areas and move to the suburbs or rural areas where there are less people, and follow the above steps.

The “Best” Survival Knife?

I wanted to share my experience with survival knives that I’ve used.  I’m the kind of person that loves blades of all sorts, and I own several different types, shapes, and sizes, and have used them on several different occasions, and have experienced their performance firsthand.  This is thanks to my survival sensei who taught me about knives; he opened my eyes to the world of knives.

But first, let me dispel the myth of the “Best” survival knife.  There is wisdom in the answer to the question “What is the best survival knife?”, the wise answer being “The one you are carrying.”   When you are in a survival situation, it doesn’t matter how excellent the knife is that you bought or made.  If you don’t have it with you, then it’s completely useless.  And the knife you have, even if it is a butter knife, will be the one you will have to depend on for that situation.

Now that I have that myth out of the way, let me give you the juicy bits of what I’ve learned about survival knives.  Here’s the wisdom about survival knives:  It’s not what you have; it’s how you use it.

Even if you have the world’s absolute best survival knife mankind can make or money can buy, it would not serve you well if you don’t know how to use it.  Worse, if you don’t know how to use it, it could hurt you or your loved ones, or even kill you or your loved ones.  When you know how to use a knife, and understand the Tao of the knife, then you can even make a butter knife become a formidable tool or a weapon.

So, there it is.  It is not the knife, but the user that makes the knife “the best” survival knife.

The legendary samurai Miyamoto Musashi said “there is nothing outside of yourself that can ever enable you to get better, stronger, richer, quicker, or smarter. Everything is within. Everything exists. Seek nothing outside of yourself.”

So what is the “Best” survival knife?

It is your mind that makes the “Best” survival knife.  It is your will to survive that is the “Best” survival knife.  How sharp, how strong, and how tough is your will to survive?  Because that will ultimately determine whether you will survive or not, not the knife.

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Now that I’ve gotten the deep stuff out of the way, here are my favorite survival knives.

1.  Morakniv:  This little Swedish 4″ carbon steel blade is my top choice for my go-bags.  I will have at least one in each of my go-bags/ camping bags.  It is sharp, light, and tough for a little blade, and makes an excellent companion for all your outdoor activities.  It comes in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes as well by Morakniv.  This little blade is good for all things that require precision cutting as well as carving wooden tools and making wooden traps.

2. Gurkha Kukri: This is a heavy duty high carbon steel utility/hunting blade that is made by Nepalese blade smiths who make Kukri blades for the Gurkha soldiers from Nepal.  This blade is nearly indestructible, and is made for heavy duty chopping and whittling wood, as well as cutting and dicing smaller stuff.  This knife can replace a hatchet or axe for chopping wood.  GK&CO. is the company that makes these hand made high carbon steel blades.  There are many different models and styles, so find one that suits you.

 

 

Notes:  Carbon steel knives will rust if not properly maintained.  Wipe off dirt and moisture after each use, and lightly apply a thin layer of machine oil or WD40 on the blade when you store it away.  When the blade starts to get dull, use a whet stone to re-sharpen the knives.  Learn knife usage and safety tips before you use a knife.  The best way to learn how to use a knife is to take a Wilderness Survival class and use the knife according to instructions.

Top 10 Must-have Weapons for the Zombie Apocalypse

Disclaimer: The use of weapons below may be considered rather gruesome and graphic, and is not suitable for children under 13.  This post discusses about an unlikely but a possible scenario of a zombie infested apocalypse, and all suggestions should be taken with a grain of salt.  That said, all weapons are dangerous and deadly, and should be practiced with professional supervision.  In such a scenario and in all survival scenarios, all weapons require skill and proficiency to be used effectively, whether combating zombies or ‘bad guys’.  Always abide by local laws and law enforcement when acquiring or practicing with weapons.  Always find an avenue of escape before engaging in combat, for all combat in reality can have deadly outcomes.  If at all possible, find higher ground that is difficult to reach by zombies, and easy to defend for you.  Always wear protective gear if available.  Safety eyewear is recommended when operating ranged weapons, and when engaging zombies in melee combat to protect eyes from gun powder discharge, flying debris, dust, and zombie bodily fluid spray.  This post assumes that zombies are people who were infected by some kind of virus or bacteria or chemical agent that turns them into ravenous flesh eating creatures, whose bite or bodily fluids can infect humans and turns them into the said creatures.

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Zombies, zombies, everywhere.  It’s the zombie apocalypse.  If you have survived the initial shock of the zombie apocalypse, now it’s time to make a break for safer ground.  If you already have the Zombie-Proof Protective Suit (Zip Suit), then you are one of the lucky few one-in-a-million that has prepared for just this type of apocalypse.  But the Zip suit is just a passive protection.  You will be called upon or the need may fall upon your shoulders to dispatch a few zombies to make a break, or make your homestead safer.  In order for that task to succeed, you’ll need some weapons prepared for such a situation.

Here are the top 10 must-have weapons for the zombie apocalypse, inspired by Max Brook’s Zombie Survival Guide.  This top 10 list is my personal pick, and in my opinion, are the must-have weapons best suited against zombies.

I will break up the weapons into to 5 melee weapons and 5 ranged weapons.  Melee weapons are for close quarters encounters, and ranged weapons are for longer distance attacks.  The listed items are all my personal favorites, and what I consider to be the most efficient use of force and ammunition and funds.  Bear in mind these weapons are hand-held weapons that can be carried by any adult with average strength or a teenager with above average strength, and can be acquired by an average American civilian.  I will not include improvised weapons.

Examples of improvised weapons, which I will not be discussing in this post.

 

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A modern Katana: sharp and deadly.

Top 5 Melee Weapons

• Gurkha Kukri* (10″+ high carbon steel blade, handmade, genuine gurkha kukri)
• Katana** (25″+ long high carbon steel blade, handmade, battle ready)
• Spear (36″ + long shaft with a 6″ long high carbon steel spear head, battle ready)
• Naginata (60″ long shaft with a 14″ + high carbon steel blade, handmade, battle ready)
• Tomahawk – throwing axe (18″-24″ shaft with 3″ + high carbon steel cutting axe head, battle ready)

I’ve chosen melee weapons that don’t require much brute force, and are simple to use.  For example, a baseball bat or a crow bar requires brute force to the head of the zombie for it to be effective.  A slashing or a piercing weapon concentrates the pressure point to a very small area, and is a much more efficient use of physical force.  Instead of hitting a zombie on the head, which is a hard target, you can decapitate it, or remove limbs and make it less of a threat to you.  A spear or a tomahawk can be thrown at a target several yards away.  A Naginata would be perfectly suited against fighting zombies and keeping them at bay in large open areas.  A katana is perfectly suited for clearing a room full of zombies, but a gurkha kukri can be great for clearing zombies in much narrower passageways or smaller enclosed areas with less room to swing.  The gurkha kukri’s design allows it to be used like an axe to chop as well as slash at targets.

Note on Chainsaws:  There are several reasons for not including a chainsaw as a weapon of choice on my melee weapon list.  1) It is an improvised weapon.  2) It requires gasoline, which isn’t always available.  (And electric models require a power cord and electricity)  3) It is noisy as hell, which will attract unwanted attention.  4) It is heavy and hard to control in combat.  5) It has a lot of vibration which makes it harder to hold on for more than a few minutes at a time.  6) It requires a start of the engine which doesn’t always start when it is needed.  7) It has too many moving parts, and requires maintenance, and knowledge of machinery, and prone to break down.  For all of the above, it makes a poor weapon of choice, no matter how much it is popularized in fiction and movies.

Chainsaws in general are not suitable for combating zombies, not just the Husqvarna chainsaw model shown here.  I have nothing against Husqvarna – they make good hardware for lawn and gardening, and they make good protective gear.

 

Notes on buying

Gurkha Kukri*: The genuine gurkha kukri blade is hand forged and made from high carbon steel, and comes from Nepal, where the Gurkha warriors originate from.  Don’t buy the “Resident Evil” movie style blades – these are knockoffs.  If it is called a kukri machete, it is not a true kukri – don’t bother buying it.  Any full sized kukri (10 – 12″) under $40 is likely to be a machine made knockoff, and anything over $100 is too expensive for a kukri.  The genuine Nepalese blades are actually cheaper than the machine forged Cold Steel blades, and are thicker and sturdier.  The spine (back of the blade) is about 1/4″ thick, and it is a heavy blade with weight emphasis on the forward 1/3 of the blade.  My favorite gurkha kukri maker is GK & CO.  Kukri House in Nepal.  They are the real deal, and these kukri are nearly indestructible.  I have several of those in various styles and lengths.  This British Gurkha AEOF Afghan issue is my favorite – it is well balanced and extremely sharp.  Notice the full tang, which extends past the handle – from the tip of the blade to the pommel, it is a one continuous piece of high carbon steel.  Proper supervision is recommended.

Learn how to fight with a Kukri properly: The Fighting Kukri: Illustrated Lessons on the Gurkha Combat Knife by Dwight McLemore, a retired combat arms officer with the U.S. Army, and an accomplished bladesman and instructor with 18 years experience in self defense and martial arts.

Warning: Kukri Handling
Drawing a kukri out from its scabbard can be dangerous if not done the right way. One needs to hold the scabbard only at its back, the fingers never circling the whole case. Then with the firm grip one needs to pull out the kukri from its case making sure the back of the blade is at the back of its case never letting its sharp edge touch the leather. And with the same way must the kukri be kept inside.

YouTube Video: Kukri vs. Zombie – by Zombie Go Boom YouTube Video – A Kukri test cutting using an anatomically correct ‘human head’.  Next: Comparison between a Cold Steel Kukri Machete and a Nepalese Kukri.  Kukri Review: GK&CO. Genuine Kukri Afghan AEOF

A British Gurkha AEOF Afghan issue Kukri

 

Katana**: The samurai’s iconic sword – the legendary katana – is now available in battle ready versions that won’t bankrupt you.  You do not need to spend $500 or more.  You can get a decent battle ready katana for a few hundred dollars.  Do not buy the cheap ‘paper cutters’ under $100 – they are ‘toys’, and will break  – you can’t depend on them in battle.  Do not buy movie props or collector swords either.  You don’t need the flashy and ornate designs either when you get a battle ready katana – just get the no-frill design, unless you are planning to hang it on the wall, or are planning to sell it on eBay.  I prefer these no frill ‘tactical‘ designs since they come wrapped with para cord, so it’s a plus.  Both the full sized tactical katana and the shorter tactical wakizashi are built solid and battle ready, and are sharp enough to decapitate a zombie.  Notice the full tang that is the same length and shape as the rubberized handle.  After slaying many zombies, you’ll want a sword that cleans easily.  The Tactical Katana is $199, and the Tactical Wakizashi is $149, so they are a good fit for the budget.  Here’s an idea; instead of getting a $500 Katana, why not get two of these Tactical ones instead which are as sharp and durable as the $500 weapon, for less?  Remember: “Two is one, and one is none”.  Make sure you remove the paracord wrap before use, from both the scabbard and the handle – it can get tangled up and ‘put you in a bind’ for some trouble.

Learn how to fight with a Katana like a real Samurai: Samurai Swordsmanship: The Batto, Kenjutsu and Tameshigiri of Eishin-Ryu by Masayuki Shimabukuro, the Grandmaster of Japanese swordsmanship.

YouTube Video: Katana vs. Zombie – by Zombie Go Boom – YouTube Video – Katana test cutting using an anatomically correct ‘zombie skull’.

Warning:  Dispel the myth that the katana can cut through steel armor.  Don’t try it, unless you want to ruin your blade.  And don’t use it for cutting trees down or chopping wood – it will ruin your blade.  And don’t even think about cutting a cinder block in half.  Use the proper tool for the task – use an axe or a kukri for chopping wood, and a demolition hammer for destroying cinder blocks.  A katana is made for cutting through flesh and bone, and it should do just that, and no other.

Note on maintenance:  You don’t need to polish the blade.  Just wipe off the blood and gore after use each day, and keep it well oiled with machine oil or WD-40, and it won’t rust.  The same tip on maintenance applies to all the other carbon steel weapons, and you can use the same type of oil as well.  There is no need to buy fancy sword oils or polishing powders and equipment – these are for display or heirloom swords, not for a battle sword.  If you already have it, then, fine, use it, but you don’t need to go out of your way to get it.

Notes on using machetes: The machete is designed to be a cheap and effective general tool for clearing bush, and great for general survival and bush craft.  That said, yes, you can use a machete as an improvised weapon to cut off a zombie’s head.  Nonetheless, for maximum effectiveness, you are better off using a real weapon designed specifically to cut through flesh and bone.  I am looking for the Best possible weapon for the job, not cheap improvised weapons.

Tactical Katana with Paracord wrap

 

Spear: This weapon is as primitive as it gets when it comes to weapons, third only to the club and the axe.  Yet, it is a simple yet highly effective weapon when killing humans or hunting big game animals, and has been tested and true for millennia.  A sharp, carbon-steel tipped spear with a long shaft will have no trouble penetrating a zombie skull.  This Cold Steel Boar Spear is nearly 7 feet long (6′ – 10 1/8″), and has an SK-5 carbon steel spear head that is designed to hunt boar, and it will allow you to spear a zombie in the head easily while giving you enough space from it’s reach.  Recommended for use in wide open spaces where maneuvering this 7 foot spear won’t be an issue.  Price range: $100.  This is an effective weapon against zombies, and for $100, it is very reasonably priced.

Cold Steel Boar Spear (with sheath)

However, if you want a shorter spear that will allow you to maneuver in a smaller space, such as a room, this Cold Steel Assegai Spear with a Short Shaft will fit the bill.  Cold Steel also makes the Assegai spear with a long shaft.  The Assegai spears are both less than a hundred dollars each – Assegai with short shaft ($44), and Assegai with long shaft ($58) – so, I recommend getting both if it fits your budget: “Two is one, one is none”.

 

Cold Steel Assegai Spears (Long shaft and short shaft)

YouTube Video: Boar Spear vs. Zombie – by Zombie Go Boom – Spear use demonstration on an anatomically correct “zombie head”.

 

Naginata: This is a samurai era Japanese pole arm with a 14″ long blade.  The samurai on foot and foot soldiers and warrior monks used this pole arm against mounted samurai, or against horses.  The naginata has a long reach similar to the long spear, and allows a safe distance between the user and the target.  The naginata will allow you to decapitate  a zombie or remove limbs from a somewhat safer distance than the katana would.  Similar to the boar spear above, this weapon is better suited for wide open spaces, and not suitable to be used in narrow spaces that will restrict its maneuvering.  Like the katana, the naginata can be quite expensive.  Price range is around $500-$600.  Cheaper knock offs are wall-hangers, and will break in battle.  Get this sharp high carbon steel Paul Chen Hanwei Naginata that is battle ready.

Paul Chen Hanwei Naginata

YouTube Video: Paul Chen Naginata Review, and Naginata basic cuts (test-cutting)

 

Tomahawk:  The Native Americans had the stone throwing axes called Tomahawks.  With the arrival of the Europeans came the metalworking technology, and the steel bladed tomahawk was born.  These tomahawks are used as hand-to-hand weapons or thrown weapons.  The modern SOG Tactical Tomahawk is based on the ancient design, and made with modern materials and design – it is a lightweight (24 oz) weapon that will be an excellent close quarters weapon.  Since it is very inexpensive ($30), you should have at least two of them, one for throwing, and one for hacking, or just have them one in each hand.  Use the 2.75″ steel axe blade to decapitate, and the spike end to puncture the zombie skull.  Since this is a lightweight weapon, you can deliver several quick blows within a few seconds.

SOG Tactical Tomahawk, Black Finish 

YouTube Video: Tomahawk vs. Zombie head by ZombieGoBoom

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A Remington Model 798 bolt action hunting rifle chambered with 30-06 Springfield cartridges, and with a Bushnell rifle scope.  With Mossy Oak rifle buttstock cartridge holder.

Top 5 Ranged Weapons

• Bolt-action big game hunting rifle with suppressor/silencer and scope
• Crossbow (with minimum 150 lb draw weight, and 20 inch bolts rated at 150lbs +), and scope, OR a Compound bow / Recurve bow / Longbow rated at 65 lbs + draw weight and minimum 24″ arrows
• Slingshot / Wrist rocket with steel ball bearing bullets
• Pump-action shotgun – 12 gauge with 22″ barrel, 18″ preferred, with 70 mm or 2.75″ 12 gauge 00 (double-aught) buckshot shells with 9 pellets each
• Heavy caliber handguns (.357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, .45 ACP)

Medium to Long range sniping: For a sniper-action against zombies, a good bolt-action big game hunting rifle with a scope and suppressor will be perfect for reaching out and dispatching zombies at ranges up to 400 yards.  However, despite the ability, targets at 200-300 yards provide a better chance of hitting, and an easier kill.  A suppressor is necessary if you don’t want to draw the attention of zombies and other roving bandits.  Also, note that a suppressor may not be legal in your local area.  In that case, you may want to use improvised methods to reduce the muzzle flash and sound reverberation.

Shorter range attacks: An average person can use a crossbow with a scope to hit a bulls-eye up to 70 yards, but will have a better chance hitting a bulls-eye at 30-40 yards.   A Compound bow, a recurve bow, or a longbow will have a similar range.  A slingshot could hit a target up to 40 yards, but will be more effective at 10-20 yards range.  A shotgun, a pistol or a revolver will be effective against targets up to 50 yards, but will be more effective at 20-30 yards range.  When zombies break through your defensive parameter within 10 yards, the better option is to run.  If running is not an option, or you are trapped, then you will need to switch to your melee weapons.

 

Notes on buying

Bolt-action big game hunting rifle: This rifle is to serve as a “one-shot, one-kill” ‘sniper’ rifle against zombies at a range of 200-300 yards, and as such, it requires long range accuracy, and stopping power.  Smaller caliber bullets “may” do the trick, but when you are knee-deep in zombies, “may” just won’t do, hence, I opt for .30 caliber plus.  There are so many civilian brands out there, and with so many different calibers (inner diameter of the barrel) and cartridge (bullet and casing) types, it can be hard to decide.  To make it simple, pick a hunting rifle that fires a common and inexpensive but reliable and accurate cartridge.  I will use a 150 grain bullet as a standard for the purpose of zombie hunting, for all calibers discussed here.  For example, the .30-30 Winchester cartridge is the ‘entry level’ common cartridge for big game hunting, and it has been around for a long time.  That said, .30-30 is not suited for targets at ranges above 200 yards, and should only be used for sniping within 70-150 yards for  effectiveness.  The .308 Winchester cartridge is a more powerful cartridge, is pretty common and known to be reliable and accurate at longer range, and it is the civilian version of the 7.62 x 51 mm NATO cartridge – not the NATO cartridge itself.  A similar cartridge .30-06 Springfield (7.62 x 63 mm) is comparable to the .308, and is known to have a little bit more power and a bit more velocity – it is the former US Army standard cartridge until early 1970’s.  If you want an even better performance (more power, velocity, and longer range), you can choose the .300 Winchester Magnum cartridge for more money.  You will need to pick which gun will fit your budget and expectations.

Whatever the case, you can get a good reliable rifle for under $1,000, scope included (Some may cost a bit more).  Best results will be achieved by aiming at 90 degree angles to the skull, and better yet, to aim through the eyes for maximum penetration.  Understand that most big game rifles will weigh between 6 and 9 lbs, and the heavier rifles are more stable and reduces recoil kickback.  Wood stocks are generally more expensive than composite (synthetic) stocks.

Left to right: .30-06 Springfield, .308 Winchester, .30-30 Winchester

Warning: Always wear eye and ear protection when firing firearms.  Protect your eyes from gases and gunpowder discharge, flying debris, dust, and ejected shell casings from the gun.  Protect your ears from the loud bang, which can cause temporary or permanent hearing impairment or loss after repeated firing of the gun.  Especially when firing a gun from inside a room or hard enclosure, the sound waves can reverberate and cause more hearing damage.  Just because you can hit a target at 600 yards does not mean that you can kill the target at 600 yards.  The maximum effective killing range will be much lower than the maximum range of the rifle and the cartridge.

Suppressors/silencers: First, dispel the myth that suppressors are ‘whisper quiet’ and make you as stealthy as a ninja assasin.  No, it will only reduce the sound to a less offensive pop – about as loud as a clap.  If it is legal to acquire a suppressor for your rifle, please do, since it will do a lot of good for you.  1) It will save your hearing.  2) It will protect your eyes from muzzle flash and flying debris, 3) It will reduce your gun’s recoil.  4) It will make you less of a target.  Note that a suppressor can cost as much as the rifle, and in some cases, even more expensive.

Calibers

Heavier caliber rifles:  There are several reasons I only mentioned rifles in the .30 caliber range.  1) .30 caliber is all you need to penetrate a zombie skull.  2) .30 caliber is widely available, and inexpensive.  3) heavier caliber guns such as .338, .375, .40’s, .416, .425, .45, .458, and .50 caliber range guns produce a significantly higher recoil, which can hurt your shoulder. 4) heavier caliber cartridges are also more expensive.  5) heavier caliber cartridges are, well, heavier to carry around.  6) heavier caliber cartridges require more gunpowder to reload.  7) heavier caliber guns will create a louder bang, and a bigger flash, which will cause you to flinch, or cause temporary vision impairment, and attract unwanted attention.  8) It’s overkill.  You just don’t need that much power.  9) The repeated firing can cause damage on your shoulders, ears, and eyes.

Lighter caliber rifles:  Yes, there are lighter caliber rifles that can penetrate a zombie skull (at a certain distance).  Yes, they are much kinder on recoil.  Yes, they are lighter, so you can carry more.  But that’s all the advantages it has.  A .30 always has much more stopping power than a lighter caliber, and .30 caliber bullets are quite common, and easy to find.  A .30 also has an extra 100 yards further effective range than a lighter caliber bullet, with the exception of the .270 Winchester.  That said, if you already have a .223 Remington caliber rifle, then use the 55 grain or heavier cartridge with muzzle energy of around 1300 ft lbs, which is very close to the 5.56 NATO cartridge specs, but instead use it for hunting zombies at a range up to 100 yards instead of 200 yards.  The 5.56 NATO round (same caliber as .223 Remington) is designed with higher pressure does have the power to penetrate a zombie skull at 200 yards or more.  If you have a rifle that can chamber and fire a 5.56 NATO, then you should use that rifle, with a scope, and use it for head shots at 200 yards range.  My research shows that such rifles are normally above $1000 range for new guns.  If you can get a good 5.56 NATO semi-auto rifle for under $1000, then go for it.  I would recommend a rifle with 18-20″ barrel for the purpose of long range zombie hunting for the 5.56 NATO cartridge.

Left: .223 Remington/5.56 NATO cartridge.  Right: .308 Winchester/7.62 NATO cartridge.

Semi-automatic and automatic rifles:  These might be useful to slow down zombies by spraying bullets at them, or to reduce their mobility, if you are on the run.  For accuracy and sniping action, and for ammo conservation, I prefer the bolt action.  If you already have it, then great, use it with a scope for single rounds only, at 200 yards.  Otherwise, if you haven’t bought one yet, I would recommend that you get a bolt action hunting rifle instead, which will likely be several hundred dollars cheaper, if not more, and use the difference to buy ammunition.

Lever action rifles:  I have nothing against lever action rifles.  I think they are somewhat similar to semi-automatic rifles in usefulness – when you are on the run, and you need to shoot from the hip, they might be useful to shoot a couple of quick rounds at zombies to slow them down, but that’s about it.  For tactical retreat scenario, I would rather use the shot gun, since it will do the same trick, and give you a good chance of blowing off a zombie’s head by aiming in the general direction.

 

Crossbows:  With a rifle stock and a pistol grip, the crossbow may feel like a rifle, but it is not.  It has a shorter effective range, and much slower velocity, and behaves more like a bow than a rifle.  It can hit a target at 60 yards, but at shorter ranges (30-40 yards), it can be an effective, low noise weapon for perimeter defense.  There are a lot of crossbows rated at 150 lb draw weight, and enough bows rated at 175 lbs that if you could get your hands on a heavier draw weight one, get it.  A good crossbow would set you back between $100 to $500, but there are also cheaper bows as well as more expensive bows.  As you can understand, the cheaper bows (under $100) will be made of cheaper materials, and will not be as reliable and stay accurate for the long run.  That said, if you want a good quality crossbow, be prepared to shell out up to $500.  Although I am not a big fan of the crossbow – I am a recurve bow fan – I think the crossbow will be somewhat easier to use than a recurve bow for the average person, and would be better suited.  My pick for the crossbow of choice would be the Barnett Penetrator – it is a heavy 175 lb draw crossbow, and it comes in a package with a 4 x 32 scope and a set of 3 x 20″ crossbow bolts, and a rope cocker.  Plus, it comes with a 5 year warranty.  You will need to invest in getting more crossbow bolts and broadheads for ammunition, and I’m sad to say they are not cheap.  Also, if you need a better cocker to reload your crossbow, try this Barnett Universal Crossbow Crank Cocker – it will make your life easier, and your hands and arms will thank you.  The Barnett Penetrator will kill a zombie just as dead as the famous Stryker Strikezone 380 crossbow that is used by Daryl in Walking Dead, and save you a couple of hundred dollars which you can use to invest in crossbow bolts.  Check your local laws if a crossbow is legal for use or possession in your area.

Warning: The manual crossbow requires loading before every shot, and it requires some strength to reload the bow, by pulling the string manually, or with the aid of a rope cocker.  The heavier the draw weight of the crossbow, the stronger you will need to be to successfully reload the crossbow.  This reloading action cannot be done easily while on the run, and therefore, the crossbow should not be used if you need to be on the move.  Preferably, you should be on high ground with a stable platform to aim, shoot, and reload the crossbow, just as a deer hunter would hunt from a hunting platform.

Barnett Penetrator 175 lb draw weight crossbow with scope

 

Recurve/Compound/Longbows:  A heavy draw hunting bow at a draw weight of 65 lbs minimum will provide sufficient power to put a broadhead arrow through a zombie’s skull.   As an alternative to the crossbow, if you are a proficient bow hunter, or has practiced with archery, the recurve/compound/or longbow can be a viable alternative or replacement for the crossbow.  However, a crossbow is better suited for someone who is not familiar with archery or bow hunting.  The modern compound bow delivers the power of the recurve and the longbows with less length by using modern technology and pulley system similar to the modern crossbows.  While the recurve and the longbow requires a direct pull strength, the modern compound bow multiplies your pull weight, and thus is more forgiving on the arms.  Wizard Archery – 70 lb draw Compound bow delivers the technology and power for a fraction of the cost of the brand name bows, and will not break your bank ($180).  It also has an adjustable draw weight from 55 to 70 lbs.  You will need a sufficient supply of 31″ arrows with up to 70 lb draw weight to handle the powerful bow, with screw-in 100 grain broadheads.  The effective range for the compound bow is 40 yards.

Warning: The arrows that you buy must have the spine weight to match the maximum draw weight of the bow, and also must be longer than the maximum draw length of the bow.  For example, if the maximum draw weight of the bow is 70 lbs, the arrow spine weight must be 70 lbs, or more.  Otherwise, it will break or split upon impact, or reduce accuracy.  If the maximum draw length of the bow is 30″, the arrow must be at least an extra inch longer to be safe, at 31″.  An arrow shorter than the draw length will not fly, or cause serious injury to the archer.  Never dry-fire your bow (pull and release the bow string without an arrow in it).  It will weaken the limbs and string and mechanisms and can eventually cause the bow to fail or malfunction.  Never point a loaded arrow at a friendly comrade.  Treat it as a loaded gun when you have an arrow nocked, especially if it is a broadhead tipped arrow.  Never point the arrow at your feet.

Wizard Archery – 70 lb draw Compound bow

Compound bow and arrow vs. Zombie head – by Zombie Go Boom a YouTube video – a test strike with a compound bow to put an arrow through a human skull analogue.

 

Slingshots: The slingshot is a significantly cheaper and shorter range weapon, and is effective and accurate against targets within 5-10 yard range, and has enough power to penetrate a zombie skull at that range.  Use this weapon as a backup ranged weapon as a companion to the crossbow or a recurve/compound/longbow if you are safely up on a platform where zombies cannot reach you.  The advantage of the slingshot is that it is relatively a quiet weapon for short range attacks, and you can nearly use any small pebble or steel bolts you find as bullets when you run out of the steel ball bearings.  This Daisy Outdoor Products “Powerline” – P51 Slingshot doesn’t have bells and whistles, but will provide a solid short range primitive and low noise attack capability.  It comes with an extra replacement band and some ammunition (See some reviews of this slingshot on YouTube Here, and Here).  Just make sure you have plenty of ammunition – steel ball bearings.  You may need to fire more than one against a zombie.  May not be legal in your local area (NJ, for instance).

Daisy Outdoor Products – P51 Slingshot Kit

 

 

Remington 870 Express 12 gauge 7 round pump action shotgun

Shotgun:  The 12 gauge shotgun is ubiquitous in many zombie movies.  I included this in my top 5 ranged weapon list.  The shotgun is good for a few uses.  1) Using it on the run to either slow down or stop some following zombies.  2) Breaching doors with a special breaching round.   This should be a ‘fall-back’ or backup weapon.  It would be effective against stopping 2 or 3 zombies following you, or slowing down 4 or 5 zombies that are following you.  You may need to fire 2 shots per zombie to stop a zombie dead, both shots placed in the head.  You should switch to this ‘fall-back’ weapon when more than 1 or 2 zombies have breached your perimeter or broken through within 20 yards, and you need to fall-back to a safer zone, or run.  My suggested shot type is the 00 buchshot with 9 or more steel pellets per cartridge for stopping zombies, and a special breaching round for breaching doors.  The drawback is that when you use any type of gun, the sound will attract unwanted attention, and when inside rooms, can cause some hearing impairment.  My pick for this pump action 12 gauge shotgun is the Remington 870 Express 12 gauge 7 round Home defense shotgun.  It is the trusted and reliable Remington brand with a 6 round magazine and 1 in the chamber, and an 18″ barrel for under $500.   If you want a cheaper brand with similar specs, you can look at the H&R Pardner Tactical shotgun, for under $250.  Don’t forget to load up on the 12 gauge 00 buckshot with 9 pellets each.

Winchester Military Grade 12 gauge 00 buckshot with 9 pellets each.

 

Heavy caliber handguns:  The pistol or revolver will be your last ranged weapon after you have fired all your shotgun shells at the oncoming zombies.  After the pistol or revolver has fired all rounds, you will need to switch to melee weapons.  You have no time to reload your shotgun, and you need to keep moving, so you pull out your last-ditch fall-back ranged weapon when the zombies get within 10 yards.  There are a few calibers I recommend that has enough stopping and popping power.  The .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum and the .45 ACP cartridges have the stopping power to take down the approaching zombies.  At this distance, you can pretty much empty all your rounds in your clip or revolver chamber before you switch over to melee weapons.

Note on 9 mm rounds:  The 9 mm Parabellum round is a very common round, and can be easy enough to find, has significantly less recoil, and is much lighter.  However, it does not have enough stopping power, and although it makes a fine round for general survival and self-defense needs against bandits and such, it falls short in stopping zombies.  That said, if you are a crack shot with a 9 mm handgun, and can do head shots 9 times out of 10 at 25 yards, then by all means, use it.  I just would not recommend it for an average person for the zombie apocalypse.

 

Please Like, Comment, and/or share.  Thank you!

Check out my YouTube Channel for related videos:  https://www.youtube.com/user/taoofsurvival

How to make a Zombie-Proof Protective Suit for the Zombie Apocalypse

Hi Folks,

I’ve been away for a long time, and wanted to jump back in.  With Halloween only about a month and a half away, and me being a Zombie movie fan, I’ve been thinking about this topic: How to make a Zombie-Proof Protective Suit for the Zombie Apocalypse.  In case an unlikely zombie apocalypse happens as in Max Brook’s World War Z, you will be prepared against zombie attacks.  We already have the technology, and there is no reason that we can’t be prepared.

To make a Zombie-Proof Protective Suit (ZPPS) or a “Zip suit”, you have to understand what makes us vulnerable from a zombie attack.  A Zombie’s most powerful weapon is it’s teeth and jaws, and the second most powerful weapon is it’s hands and fingernails.  Whether a Zombie is immobile, semi-mobile, or fully mobile, it’s the teeth and the hands that can harm us.

A Zip suit is a passive protective suit that you can wear like body armor when you go out into a zombie infested area.  The suit will need to be designed to protect you from zombie bites and scratches from it’s fingernails.  The main idea is to leave as little exposed skin as possible without restricting mobility, and protecting the skin from bites and scratches.  Our most vulnerable parts are our arms and legs; shoulders and elbows, knees and calves, feet and toes, hands and fingers, neck, ears, and our face, especially our eyes.

I’ve put together what I consider the best protection you could buy for a Zip suit.  This Zip suit I have designed will have several layers for ultimate protection.  Please be aware that this Zip suit is created using items available today for civilians – here, I’ve used woven Kevlar as the main material for protection.  The result is a lightweight and flexible suit of body armor that will give you plenty of protection from zombie bites, scratches, cuts and scrapes, and allow you to move quickly through a zombie invested area.

Disclaimer: This ‘armor’ is designed to protect against bites, scratches, cuts, and scrapes.  However, it will not protect against bullets or shrapnel.  No suit of armor is 100% effective.  You must use your common sense for your survival, i.e., do not walk into a horde of zombies thinking your armor will make you invulnerable – it won’t.  It especially cannot protect you from your own stupidity – you can still get killed if you do things that this suit is not designed to protect you from.  That said, relax, a zombie apocalypse may never happen – use these suggestions with a grain of salt.

 

The Zip Suit (ZPPS: Zombie-Proof Protective Suit) Layers

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Layer 1

First, the under layer.  This will be the minimal layer for protection from zombie bites.

Top: Kevlar undershirt (Draggin’ 100% Kevlar undershirt)
This Kevlar undershirt is made for motorcycle riders who need protection from cuts and scrapes, and it will do well against zombie bites also.

 

Bottom: Kevlar underpants (Draggin’ 100% Kevlar underpants)
Made for motorcycle riders to protect from cuts and scrapes, these underpants will protect your groin, hips, and legs from zombie bites.

 

Hands: Kevlar gloves – inner layer (Rothco Heavyweight Kevlar Knit Gloves)
These cut-resistant gloves will be the inner layer of protection from zombie bites.

 

Feet: Kevlar Socks (Bauer Elite Performance Skate Socks)
These kevlar knitted skate socks protect the most vulnerable part of the legs and feet from cuts and scrapes: the calf, the Achilles heel and the ankle, where the zombie can grab and bite.  The toes will be protected by the boot layer.

 

Neck: Kevlar neck protector (Hatch Centurion Kevlar Neck Protector)
The neck is very vulnerable from zombie bites, and this cut resistant Kevlar neck protector could protect the neck from bites.

 

Head and Neck: Kevlar Balaclava (Damascus Kevlar Heavyweight hood Balaclava)
This Fire and cut resistant Kevlar hood balaclava will protect your head and neck from zombie bites.  This hood balaclava is to be worn over the neck protector.

 

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Layer 1.5

Arms: Kevlar Arm Sleeves (Kevlar Double Ply Cut-resistant sleeves)
This additional layer of kevlar arm sleeves can be worn over the undershirt and the inner glove layer for extra protection against zombie bites.  These sleeves will protect the arm, elbows, and palms against cuts and scrapes, and heat and flames.  Arms are an easy target for zombies to grab and chomp down, so an extra layer of protection helps.

 

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Layer 2

The purpose of this layer is to provide you with pockets for necessary supplies and ammo and other useful gadgets.  Tactical or hiking/camping apparel fit this bill.  So, for an example, an outfit like this cargo jacket from LNY Apparel would provide you with lots of pockets and also a little warmth in a cold day.

If you want a little more protection, but less pockets, this Draggin’ Kevlar lined motorcycle denim jacket will give you protection along the arms and shoulders.

For pants, this 5.11 TacLite Pro pants give comfort and utility for the wearer, with pockets to stash away ammo, gear, and gadgets.

If you want an extra layer of protection, replace the above with these kevlar lined motorcycle clothing.

This Newfacelook motorcycle kevlar lined jeans provide kevlar lined protection on the knees, sides of thighs, and hips, plus it has side-pockets.

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Layer 3

This layer provides additional protection to the hands, and feet.

Hands: Kevlar hard knuckle gloves (Rothco Kevlar Hard Knuckle Tactical Gloves)

 

Feet: Steel toed boots
The fact is that most steel toed boots are built for heavy duty work such as construction and outdoor work and already protects the feet against punctures, cuts, and abrasions.   However, some boots are made tougher, and some provide more protection and protective features than others.  A good work boot with steel toes will provide enough protection against zombie bites.

As a minimum, the boots should be 8″ high to protect the calf and Achilles tendon, and have steel or safety toe, and have puncture resistant sole and all-terrain traction features without weighing down like lead weights.  These 5.11 ATAC Shield 8″ Side Zip boots are lightweight boots that offer all the necessary protection, and are comfortable to wear.

They will work well with Kevlar reinforced boot laces.

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Layer 4

This layer will provide an additional ‘soft’ protective layer against zombie bites.  The main areas of protection will be the shoulders, arms, and legs.

Shoulders and arms: Kevlar Arm & Shoulder Sleeves (Eyeleted Kevlar Twill Shoulder Cap Sleeve).  Although this is used for glass workers to protect them from cuts, this will do nicely against zombie bites.

Legs: Chainsaw chaps (Husqvarna chainsaw chaps)
This is an additional layer to protect the legs from zombie bites, cuts and scrapes – it would protect the front of the legs (thighs, knees, and shins) from chainsaw cuts!

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Layer 5

This forms the hard protective shell against zombie bites.  There are civilian style motorcycle or contact sports armor with shoulder, arm, elbow, knee, and shin guards that could provide this layer of protection.

Upper body: Shoulder and arms
CE Approved Full Body Armor Motorcycle Jacket
 This motorcycle body armor provides protection for the chest, back, shoulders, upper arms, elbows, and lower arms.  When combined with the kevlar arm and shoulder sleeves above, this will provide sufficient protection against zombie bites.

 

Legs: Knees and shins
Shift Racing Enforcer Knee/Shin guards will protect your knees and shins from obstacles and zombie bites.

Head protection: Any full face motorcycle helmets or hockey helmets with cage will do the trick.
Shark Raw Solid Full Face Motorcycle Helmet  |  Bauer 2100 Helmet Combo
          

If you are wearing a motorcycle helmet, keep your visor down when in the presence of zombies.  If you are wearing the hockey helmet, I would suggest you wear safety glasses or goggles for protection against flying debris and zombie bodily fluids from getting into your eyes.

Anti-fog safety goggles/glasses are preferable for your eye protection.  These safety glasses below are from Pyramex Safety Eyewear.

All put together, it could look pretty much like this..  The body armor is from Hatch Exotech Body Armor.

How to Survive Winter Storms and Winter Travel Accidents

Hi Folks,

Since Winter is squarely upon us, we are already hunkering down for the cold weather.  Most of us will hopefully be warm and cozy in our homes while the cold weather makes those outside chatter away.  However, with the Holidays upon us, most of us will be traveling either locally or will be crossing state or country borders.  So, there are a few tips I would like to share when preparing for winter travel and storms.

Just last year around this time, the East Coast was hit by Hurricane Sandy and followed a few months later by the Winter Storm Nemo in February this year (2013).  It was a double-whammy for some parts of the North Eastern United States.  I remember the Winter Storm Nemo well because we were just recovering from the Hurricane Sandy, and I was back at work in a Disaster Recovery site for a few days trying to pull ourselves back together and back on our feet.  Then Nemo rolled in.   When Nemo made land fall, I was still at work, and calling my team to get ready for the storm, but I was stuck in Ryebrook, NY, and I was one of the ‘essential’ employees, so I had to stay late.  I could see the snow coming down like a white blanket, and I knew it was going to be bad.  So, I excused myself from work at the last minute when I knew I had to leave, or I would be stuck for the night.

Things I did right:

1. I went to the bathroom before I left. (If it was a long trip and I had to go to the bathroom, it would make the trip a lot more uncomfortable)
2. I filled up the gas tank before I got on the highway.  (If I was stuck on the roads longer than planned, a full tank would allow me to stay warm and get home)
3. When I knew the highways were jammed, I took the first exit I could use, and used local roads.  (By doing what everyone else was NOT doing, I had a pretty easy way out)
4. I had new all-weather tires for my car.  (For better traction in the snow – snow tires are better, but new all-weather tires are better than old ones)
5. I was dressed warmly. (Staying warm will keep me alive longer in case of an accident)
6. I had my cell phone and car charger, food, water, hand-warmers, an extra pair of gloves, emergency blankets, matches, lighters, a 100 hour candle, a deicer, a window scraper, a shovel, a high visibility reflective vest, emergency  roadside signs, a flashlight, a seatbelt cutter/window breaker/knife, a small vehicle fire-extinguisher, and a first aid kit in my car. (All this can help me survive longer and easier)

Luckily, I didn’t have to use anything from #6, and I arrived home safely (but very late) after a nearly 5 hour trip that should have only taken 1 and a half hour tops in normal traffic.

What I didn’t do right:

1. I waited till the last minute.  (In bad weather, it’s better to get out early and give myself enough breathing room than get stuck in the storm)
2. I took the highways.  (that’s where everyone was going, and roads would be jammed)
3. I didn’t listen to my own advice about not leaving till the last minute.  (I had told everyone to leave early, but I waited until the last possible minute, leaving me no room for error – it was an error of judgement based on my own arrogance – thinking I was prepared.)

Things that could have gone wrong:

1. Visibility was poor, and roads were slippery.  I could have gotten in an accident because of the things that I didn’t do right, since there were weather related accidents on the road that night which caused the traffic jams.  I was tired, and my reaction time would have gotten slow.
2. I could have been stuck in traffic for several hours longer, which could create greater chances of #1 above.

Granted, things didn’t go wrong and I did get home safely, but I took way too much risk by leaving at the last minute.  I should have left at least 2 hours earlier, OR just stayed the night at the Disaster Recovery facility, OR booked a night at a local motel.

So, what if I was not as fortunate, and had gotten into an accident?  What should I do in that situation?

If I was not hurt, I would:

1. Stay calm, get bearings, and remain inside vehicle if vehicle is not severely damaged.
2. Stay warm.
3. Call for help.
4. Stay hydrated.
5. Eat something to maintain energy reserves.
6. Be patient, and repeat steps above until help arrives.

If I was hurt, I would:

1. Stay calm, get bearings, and remain inside vehicle if vehicle is not severely damaged.
2. Call for help.
3. Treat my injuries if possible, especially if I am bleeding – stop the bleeding.
4. Stay warm.
5. Stay hydrated.
6. Eat something to maintain energy reserves.
7. Be patient, and repeat steps above until help arrives.

If the vehicle was severely damaged, I would:

1. Stay calm, get bearings.
2. Get out of the vehicle, take emergency supplies with me.
3. Call for help.
4. Treat injuries if injured, stopping any bleeding first.
5. Find or build a shelter within 400 feet of the vehicle.  If possible, visible from the vehicle or the roads.
6. Build a fire, use rocks to maintain heat, and stay warm.
7. Stay hydrated.  (we lose water quickly in cold weather through breathing, and would cause dehydration)
8. Eat high energy foods (or any food available) to maintain energy reserves.
9. Wear high visibility clothing on top, and use any flashlights or emergency lights to be seen.
10. Be patient, and repeat steps above until help arrives.

Hope this helps.  Stay warm.  Be prepared for this winter weather.

Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!

As House Stark warns in “The Game of Thrones”, “Winter is coming.”

Please comment and/or share!  Thanks for reading!

The Tao of Survival
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I took the plunge, and now I’m writing a book..

Folks,

I have to admit, I love fiction novels.  I have read a lot of fiction novels, especially in these  categories: science fiction, fantasy, spiritual (like Celestine Prophecy), techno-thrillers, and lately, apocalyptic and post-apocalyptic fiction.  And, I’ve always dreamed about writing a novel one day.  And that one day came last year in September 2012 – with all the stories of apocalypse going around the 2012 theme.

Around that time, I had just finished reading a few books on EMP (Electro-magnetic Pulse) disasters, and they opened my eyes to how devastating it could be for America.  I read books like One Second After – by William Forstchen,  Lights Out – by David Crawford, and 77 Days in September – by Ray Gorham.

I have been inspired by my favorite authors like Tom Clancy (RIP), and Robert Ludlum on techno-thriller type novels, and I wanted to write like they did – fast paced, gadgets galore, and gritty espionage and military action stories.

So, I started writing a book that kind of encompasses all the above categories.  It’s a very ambitious goal, and I have no formal training, and have no prior experience on writing a novel, so this is going to be a long shot – a shoot for the moon.  The only thing that’s going for me is that I like to write, and that I have an active imagination (which is why I hate horror movies and it’s not one of the categories I read).  You can imagine when I was a kid that a horror movie or a horror story would keep me up at night, and it still does.  The creepiest film I saw was The Grudge – a Japanese horror movie adapted to the American audience – that movie still haunts me to this day.  LOL

Anyways, I am about 75% done after a little over a year, and I’m about to get it published.  However, I’m a little short on cash (I recently quit my job – which is another reason for urgency), and need money to send my book to a good editor.  A friend of mine gave me an idea, and I’ve put it up on Indiegogo to raise some funds.

So, the story is about how America gets attacked by terrorists funded by rogue nations with Super EMP nuclear missiles, and the attack fulfills a century old Native American prophecy of the end of the world as we know it (TEOTWAWKI) when the aurora in the skies turned red by the EMP attack.  The story is based in New York City, where a young couple must escape the ensuing chaos and mayhem in the island city of Manhattan.  It’s a survival thriller/apocalyptic thriller/techno-thriller.

I’m calling my book “The Third Sign” – the first book of a planned trilogy.  Check it out here.. http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-third-sign-a-new-apocalyptic-thriller-novel  If you like the story idea, and would like to read a book like that, please donate, and/or get the word out!   Unfortunately, I only have 7 days left on my campaign, so there you go!

By the way, my author name is Allistaire Myaing.  I’m that Asian dude in a suit in the profile pic at the bottom of the page.

Please feel free to give me constructive feedback on the book idea, or share some kind words – I can always use that.  Thank you for your support!

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-third-sign-a-new-apocalyptic-thriller-novel

Please comment and/or share!  Thanks for reading!

The Tao of Survival
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Heading for the Hills – A Local’s POV

Hi Folks,

I found this great article about a local’s point of view (POV) on some survivalists who build a Bug Out Location (BOL) in their neighborhood in the hills..  Bear in mind this local is what some consider a “hillbilly”..  This is local wisdom on survival.  If you are planning to Bug Out in the hills, you need to read this.  “Flatlander” in this case, means city folks.

The Original Article can be found here: http://www.oftwominds.com/blogjun08/survival6-08.html

__________

The Art of Survival, Taoism and the Warring States

This week’s theme: Survival +   (June 27, 2008)

I’m not trying to be difficult, but I can’t help cutting against the grain on topics like surviving the coming bad times when my experience runs counter to the standard received wisdom.

A common thread within most discussions of surviving bad times–especially really bad times–runs more or less like this: stockpile a bunch of canned/dried food and other valuable accoutrements of civilized life (generators, tools, canned goods, firearms, etc.) in a remote area far from urban centers, and then wait out the bad times, all the while protecting your stash with an array of weaponry and technology (night vision binocs, etc.)

Now while I respect and admire the goal, I must respectfully disagree with just about every assumption behind this strategy. Once again, this isn’t because I enjoy being ornery (please don’t check on that with my wife) but because everything in this strategy runs counter to my own experience in rural, remote settings.

You see, when I was a young teen my family lived in the mountains. To the urban sophisticates who came up as tourists, we were “hicks” (or worse), and to us they were “flatlanders” (derisive snort).

Now the first thing you have to realize is that we know the flatlanders, but they don’t know us. They come up to their cabin, and since we live here year round, we soon recognize their vehicles and know about how often they come up, what they look like, if they own a boat, how many in their family, and just about everything else which can be learned by simple observation.

The second thing you have to consider is that after school and chores (remember there are lots of kids who are too young to have a legal job, and many older teens with no jobs, which are scarce), boys and girls have a lot of time on their hands. We’re not taking piano lessons and all that urban busywork. And while there are plenty of pudgy kids spending all afternoon or summer in front of the TV or videogame console, not every kid is like that.

So we’re out riding around. On a scooter or motorcycle if we have one, (and if there’s gasoline, of course), but if not then on bicycles, or we’re hoofing it. Since we have time, and we’re wandering all over this valley or mountain or plain, one way or another, then somebody will spot that trail of dust rising behind your pickup when you go to your remote hideaway. Or we’ll run across the new road or driveway you cut, and wander up to see what’s going on. Not when you’re around, of course, but after you’ve gone back down to wherever you live. There’s plenty of time; since you picked a remote spot, nobody’s around.

Your hideaway isn’t remote to us; this is our valley, mountain, desert, etc., all 20 miles of it, or what have you. We’ve hiked around all the peaks, because there’s no reason not to and we have a lot of energy. Fences and gates are no big deal, (if you triple-padlock your gate, then we’ll just climb over it) and any dirt road, no matter how rough, is just an open invitation to see what’s up there. Remember, if you can drive to your hideaway, so can we. Even a small pickup truck can easily drive right through most gates (don’t ask how, but I can assure you this is true). If nobody’s around, we have all the time in the world to lift up or snip your barbed wire and sneak into your haven. Its remoteness makes it easy for us to poke around and explore without fear of being seen.

What flatlanders think of as remote, we think of as home. If you packed in everything on your back, and there was no road, then you’d have a very small hideaway–more a tent than a cabin. You’d think it was safely hidden, but we’d eventually find it anyway, because we wander all over this area, maybe hunting rabbits, or climbing rocks, or doing a little fishing if there are any creeks or lakes in the area. Or we’d spot the wisp of smoke rising from your fire one crisp morning, or hear your generator, and wonder who’s up there. We don’t need much of a reason to walk miles over rough country, or ride miles on our bikes.

When we were 13, my buddy J.E. and I tied sleeping bags and a few provisions on our bikes–mine was a crappy old 3-speed, his a Schwinn 10-speed–and rode off into the next valley over bone-jarring dirt roads. We didn’t have fancy bikes with shocks, and we certainly didn’t have camp chairs, radios, big ice chests and all the other stuff people think is necessary to go camping; we had some matches, cans of beans and apple sauce and some smashed bread. (It didn’t start out smashed, but the roads were rough. Note: if you ever suffer from constipation, I recommend beans and apple sauce.)

We camped where others had camped before us, not in a campground but just off the road in a pretty little meadow with a ring of fire-blackened rocks and a flat spot among the pine needles. We didn’t have a tent, or air mattress, or any of those luxuries; but we had the smashed bread and the beans, and we made a little fire and ate and then went to sleep under the stars glittering in the dark sky.

There were a few bears in the area, but we weren’t afraid; we didn’t need a gun to feel safe. We weren’t dumb enough to sleep with our food; if some bear wandered by and wanted the smashed bread, he could take it without bothering us. The only animal which could bother us was the human kind, and since few people walk 10 or more miles over rough ground in the heat and dust, then we’d hear their truck or motorbike approaching long before they ever spotted us.

We explored old mines and anything else we spotted, and then we rode home, a long loop over rutted, dusty roads. In summer, we took countless hikes over the mountainous wilderness behind his family cabin.

All of which is to say that the locals will know where your hideaway is because they have lots of time to poke around. Any road, no matter how rough, might as well be lit with neon lights which read, “Come on up and check this out!” If a teen doesn’t spot your road, then somebody will: a county or utility employee out doing his/her job, a hunter, somebody. As I said, the only slim chance you have of being undetected is if you hump every item in your stash on your pack through trailess, roadless wilderness. But if you ever start a fire, or make much noise, then you’re sending a beacon somebody will eventually notice.

The Taoists developed their philosophy during an extended era of turmoil known as the Warring States period of Chinese history. One of their main principles runs something like this: if you’re tall and stout and strong, then you’ll call attention to yourself. And because you’re rigid–that is, what looks like strength at first glance–then when the wind rises, it snaps you right in half.

If you’re thin and ordinary and flexible, like a willow reed, then you’ll bend in the wind, and nobody will notice you. You’ll survive while the “strong” will be broken, either by unwanted attention or by being brittle.

Another thing to ponder is that the human animal is a much better predator than it is an elusive prey. Goats and wild turkeys and other animals have very keen senses of smell and hearing, and it’s tough to get close without them smelling you or hearing you. They’re well camoulflaged, and since human sight is selected to detect movement and color, if they stay quite still we have a hard time spotting them.

In comparison, the human is a clumsy prey. It can’t smell or hear very well, and it’s large and not well camouflaged. Plus it’s usually distracted and unaware of its surroundings. It doesn’t take much to kill a human, either; a single-shot rifle and a single round of .22-long is plenty enough.

If the chips are down, and push comes to shove, then what we’re discussing is a sort of war, isn’t it? And if we’re talking about war, then we should think about the principles laid down in The Art Of War by Sun Tzu quite some time ago.

The flatlander protecting his valuable depot is on the defensive, and anyone seeking to take it away (by negotiation, threat or force) is on the offensive. The defense can select the site for proximity to water, clear fields of fire, or what have you, but one or two defenders have numerous disadvantages. Perhaps most importantly, they need to sleep. Secondly, just about anyone who’s plinked cans with a rifle and who’s done a little hunting can sneak up and put away an unwary human. Unless you remain in an underground bunker 24/7, at some point you’ll be vulnerable. And that’s really not much of a life–especially when your food supplies finally run out, which they eventually will. Or you run out of water, or your sewage system overflows, or some other situation requires you to emerge.

So let’s line it all up. Isn’t a flatlander who piles up a high-value stash in a remote area with no neighbors within earshort or line of sight kind of like a big, tall brittle tree? All those chains and locks and barbed-wire fencing and bolted doors just shout out that the flatlander has something valuable inside that cabin/bunker/RV etc.

Now if he doesn’t know any better, then the flatlander reckons his stash is safe. But what he’s not realizing if that we know about his stash and his vehicle and whatever else can be observed. If some locals want that stash, then they’ll wait for the flatlander to leave and then they’ll tow the RV off or break into the cabin, or if it’s small enough, disassemble it and haul it clean off. There’s plenty of time, and nobody’s around. That’s pretty much the ideal setting for leisurely thieving: a high-value stash of goodies in a remote area accessible by road is just about perfect.

Let’s say things have gotten bad, and the flatlander is burrowed into his cabin. Eventually some locals will come up to visit; in a truck if there’s gas, on foot if there isn’t. We won’t be armed; we’re not interested in taking the flatlander’s life or goodies. We just want to know what kind of person he is. So maybe we’ll ask to borrow his generator for a town dance, or tell him about the church food drive, or maybe ask if he’s seen so-and-so around.

Now what’s the flatlander going to do when several unarmed men approach? Gun them down? Once he’s faced with regular unarmed guys, he can’t very well conclude they’re a threat and warn them off. But if he does, then we’ll know he’s just another selfish flatlander. He won’t get any help later when he needs it; or it will be minimal and grudging. He just counted himself out.

Suppose some bad guys hear about the flatlander’s hideway and stash. All it takes to stalk any prey is patience and observation; and no matter how heavily armed the flatlander is, he’ll become vulnerable at some point to a long-range shot. (Even body armor can’t stop a headshot or a hit to the femoral artery in the thigh.) Maybe he stays indoors for 6 days, or even 60. But at some point the windmill breaks or the dog needs walking or what have you, and he emerges–and then he’s vulnerable. The more visible and stringent the security, the more he’s advertising the high value of his depot.

And of course guarding a high-value stash alone is problematic for the simple reason that humans need to sleep.

So creating a high-value horde in a remote setting is looking like just about the worst possible strategy in the sense that the flatlander has provided a huge incentive to theft/robbery and also provided a setting advantageous to the thief or hunter.

If someone were to ask this “hick” for a less risky survival strategy, I would suggest moving into town and start showing a little generosity rather than a lot of hoarding. If not in town, then on the edge of town, where you can be seen and heard.

I’d suggest attending church, if you’ve a mind to, even if your faith isn’t as strong as others. Or join the Lions Club, Kiwanis or Rotary International, if you can get an invitation. I’d volunteer to help with the pancake breakfast fundraiser, and buy a couple tickets to other fundraisers in town. I’d mow the old lady’s lawn next door for free, and pony up a dollar if the elderly gentleman in line ahead of me at the grocery store finds himself a dollar light on his purchase.

If I had a parcel outside town that was suitable for an orchard or other crop, I’d plant it, and spend plenty of time in the local hardware store and farm supply, asking questions and spreading a little money around the local merchants. I’d invite my neighbors into my little plain house so they could see I don’t own diddly-squat except some second-hand furniture and a crappy old TV. And I’d leave my door open so anyone could see for themselves I’ve got very little worth taking.

I’d have my tools, of course; but they’re scattered around and old and battered by use; they’re not shiny and new and expensive-looking, and they’re not stored all nice and clean in a box some thief could lift. They’re hung on old nails, or in the closet, and in the shed; a thief would have to spend a lot of time searching the entire place, and with my neighbors looking out for me, the thief is short of the most important advantage he has, which is time.

If somebody’s desperate enough or dumb enough to steal my old handsaw, I’ll buy another old one at a local swap meet. (Since I own three anyway, it’s unlikely anyone would steal all three because they’re not kept together.)

My valuable things, like the water filter, are kept hidden amidst all the low-value junk I keep around to send the message there’s nothing worth looking at. The safest things to own are those which are visibly low-value, surrounded by lots of other mostly worthless stuff.

I’d claim a spot in the community garden, or hire a neighbor to till up my back yard, and I’d plant chard and beans and whatever else my neighbors suggested grew well locally. I’d give away most of what I grew, or barter it, or maybe sell some at the farmer’s market. It wouldn’t matter how little I had to sell, or how much I sold; what mattered was meeting other like-minded souls and swapping tips and edibles.

If I didn’t have a practical skill, I’d devote myself to learning one. If anyone asked me, I’d suggest saw sharpening and beer-making. You’re legally entitled to make quite a bit of beer for yourself, and a decent homebrew is always welcome by those who drink beer. It’s tricky, and your first batches may blow up or go flat, but when you finally get a good batch you’ll be very popular and well-appreciated if you’re of the mind to share.

Saw-sharpening just takes patience and a simple jig; you don’t need to learn a lot, like a craftsman, but you’ll have a skill you can swap with craftsmen/women. As a carpenter, I need sharp saws, and while I can do it myself, I find it tedious and would rather rebuild your front porch handrail or a chicken coop in exchange for the saw-sharpening.

Pickles are always welcome in winter, or when rations get boring; the Germans and Japanese of old lived on black bread or brown rice and pickled vegetables, with an occasional piece of dried meat or fish. Learning how to pickle is a useful and easy-to-learn craft. There are many others. If you’re a techie, then volunteer to keep the network up at the local school; do it for free, and do a good job. Show you care.

Because the best protection isn’t owning 30 guns; it’s having 30 people who care about you. Since those 30 have other people who care about them, you actually have 300 people who are looking out for each other, including you. The second best protection isn’t a big stash of stuff others want to steal; it’s sharing what you have and owning little of value. That’s being flexible, and common, the very opposite of creating a big fat highly visible, high-value target and trying to defend it yourself in a remote setting.

I know this runs counter to just about everything that’s being recommended by others, but if you’re a “hick” like me, then you know it rings true. The flatlanders are scared because they’re alone and isolated; we’re not scared. We’ve endured bad times before, and we don’t need much to get by. We’re not saints, but we will reciprocate to those who extend their good spirit and generosity to the community in which they live and in which they produce something of value.

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Please comment and/or share!  Thanks for reading!

The Tao of Survival
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Survival Explained: Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs in a Collapse of Society

Folks,

I got a chance to revisit the Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs yesterday, and for the first time, got to see it from a Prepper’s point of view (POV).  It made a lot of sense (most of it, anyways).  For most Preppers, we are most concerned about taking care of the bottom two layers of the triangle or pyramid (I prefer to call it a pyramid) so that we can focus on the three upper layers of the pyramid to enjoy life.

(Click on the image above to see it larger.)

When we look at society collapses from history, people fall to the lower first or second layers of the pyramid (Physiological or Safety Needs), and in the worst cases, they fall to the lower first (Physiological Needs).  If they are not prepared for society collapse, they will be stuck in the lower first layer, struggling just to find shelter, water, fire, and food (the four basic needs of survival).

It is easy to operate on the higher levels of the Maslow’s pyramid when the society is functioning, when all our basic needs are supported.  As Preppers, we don’t prepare because we are obsessed, we do it out of necessity, so that when society collapses (the pyramid collapses downward), the whole bottom doesn’t fall out for us, while for the unprepared society, the bottom will fall out.

That is why we prepare.  That is the Tao of Survival.

Please comment and/or share!  Thanks for reading!

The Tao of Survival
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The Law of the Jungle – by Rudyard Kipling

Folks,

I just love this poem, because it is still relevant today as it was before..  timeless wisdom by a timeless author.  Respect!

I borrowed this quote from this site: http://www2.fiu.edu/~milesk/Rudyard_Kipling_Law_of_the_Jungle.htm

The Law of the Jungle (From The Jungle Book) by Rudyard Kipling

Now this is the Law of the Jungle —
as old and as true as the sky;
And the Wolf that shall keep it may prosper,
but the Wolf that shall break it must die.

As the creeper that girdles the tree-trunk
the Law runneth forward and back —
For the strength of the Pack is the Wolf,
and the strength of the Wolf is the Pack.

Wash daily from nose-tip to tail-tip;
drink deeply, but never too deep;
And remember the night is for hunting,
and forget not the day is for sleep.

The Jackal may follow the Tiger,
but, Cub, when thy whiskers are grown,
Remember the Wolf is a Hunter —
go forth and get food of thine own.

Keep peace withe Lords of the Jungle —
the Tiger, the Panther, and Bear.
And trouble not Hathi the Silent,
and mock not the Boar in his lair.

When Pack meets with Pack in the Jungle,
and neither will go from the trail,
Lie down till the leaders have spoken —
it may be fair words shall prevail.

When ye fight with a Wolf of the Pack,
ye must fight him alone and afar,
Lest others take part in the quarrel,
and the Pack be diminished by war.

The Lair of the Wolf is his refuge,
and where he has made him his home,
Not even the Head Wolf may enter,
not even the Council may come.

The Lair of the Wolf is his refuge,
but where he has digged it too plain,
The Council shall send him a message,
and so he shall change it again.

If ye kill before midnight, be silent,
and wake not the woods with your bay,
Lest ye frighten the deer from the crop,
and your brothers go empty away.

Ye may kill for yourselves, and your mates,
and your cubs as they need, and ye can;
But kill not for pleasure of killing,
and seven times never kill Man!

If ye plunder his Kill from a weaker,
devour not all in thy pride;
Pack-Right is the right of the meanest;
so leave him the head and the hide.

The Kill of the Pack is the meat of the Pack.
Ye must eat where it lies;
And no one may carry away of that meat to his lair,
or he dies.

The Kill of the Wolf is the meat of the Wolf.
He may do what he will;
But, till he has given permission,
the Pack may not eat of that Kill.

Cub-Right is the right of the Yearling.
From all of his Pack he may claim
Full-gorge when the killer has eaten;
and none may refuse him the same.

Lair-Right is the right of the Mother.
From all of her year she may claim
One haunch of each kill for her litter,
and none may deny her the same.

Cave-Right is the right of the Father —
to hunt by himself for his own:
He is freed of all calls to the Pack;
he is judged by the Council alone.

Because of his age and his cunning,
because of his gripe and his paw,
In all that the Law leaveth open,
the word of your Head Wolf is Law.

Now these are the Laws of the Jungle,
and many and mighty are they;
But the head and the hoof of the Law
and the haunch and the hump is — Obey!

So, are you a Lone Wolf, or do you prefer to be part of the pack?

Please comment and/or share!  Thanks for reading!

The Tao of Survival
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